Getting hit by my own board sucks. I’ve lost control of my board while duck diving and had it corked up and slammed into my leg(twice). Both times drawing blood and dinging my tail. I’ve had a fin cut nearly slice my ear off, I was 10 and it was pretty traumatic at the time. I’ll get into that in more detail at another date though.
I had a friend get beaned by one of the points of his swallow tail. We were surfing a local point on a day so heavy that most of the surf spots were closed. But this spot had tetra pods blocking the break to one side, so getting out to the lineup of a big day was fairly easy. Just paddle underneath the pods and slip out the back door between sets and you’re golden. But this day the waves were thick, hollow closeouts and they were breaking deep, making it hard to get out. It was sketchy as hell to say the least.
Anyway he takes of on one that looked like it had a little shoulder to work with. That shoulder soon morphed into a hideous closeout, and he went for a tumble in the wash. I saw his board spear out of the water straight into the air, and soon after my friends head popped up out of the soup for air. As soon as he did the board came down tail first, and hit him square on the top of the head. I remember panicking and paddling over to him frantically, hoping I wouldn’t get hammered by another closeout. I feared he would be out cold. But I found him lucid and ok. He was wearing a cap(it was winter), and it most certainly saved him that day. When we got up to the beach, he pulled his cap off and all this blood came pouring out.
I remember we had a pretty hearty laugh about it at the time. Maybe it was nerves, but somehow the comedic timing of the cap and blood we both found hilarious. Needless to say we rushed to the hospital and got him stitched up. You gotta pay to play, as they say.
New Surfer Joe content every Wednesday & Saturday.