Surprise! Your board is flying right at you. This happens all the time, at least to me. When I don’t know where my board is, my default reaction when I pop out of the water is to cover up and pray. When you wipe out a lot of the times you are flying away from your board, until you reach the max length of your leash and it bungees back at you.
It’s worst when you aren’t expecting it. I remember this one wave where I hopped off at the end feet first. I went pretty deep but I wasn’t in danger so I wasn’t worried. Poked my head out of the water only to get hit in the face by the tail of my board. I was riding a 6’3″ with a narrow(and sharp) swallow tail at the time, and it caught me right between the eyes. Got a little of the center fin to the chops as well. The mark on my forehead was small but drew a surprising amount of blood. To make matters worse I had to perform a wedding later in the day(No, I’m not ordained. I live in Japan). I’m sure the wedding company wasn’t pleased, though they never said anything to me about it.
That was about when I decided weddings were not for me. Though the money is quite good in Japan, and it’s actually fun meeting the Bride and Groom and seeing their nervousness on the most important day of their lives. I always tried to find ways to relax them and help them enjoy the moment. Though the wedding company never seemed to appreciate it, I always felt the Bride and Groom did. I guess I wasn’t serious enough… It’s not like I was making goofy faces and cracking wise or anything. Although I am known to do that I’m told.
But I digress.
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