Water forces it’s way down my thought and into my stomach. The force of the wave almost pushes me off my feet as I cough up sea water. The salty sting pierces my sinus. This happened to me a number of times as a kid, riding boogie boards at Shobuta beach.
It’s not as bad as it sounds. For a wave to hit you in the face like that they have to be pretty small. It can instill a healthy fear of drowning in you, which is something you need if you’re going to be spending a lot of time in the ocean. It’s like it was telling me that it deserves my respect, and it’ll get it one way or another.
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